Secret to success

Restaurant service is not brain surgery!

Before you go in to a rage in case you are in the business your self, please listen.

Anyone who's worked in a busy restaurant intimately knows the physical and psychological stress that comes with it. I'd say even more so if you happen to be a part of the chef team. It is truly a skill to handle this environment on any level.

Yesterday we had perhaps the busiest night since I started working at a local hotel. They've certainly had busier times but it cemented a few things for me. As it got a bit pressurised during a certain hour when private functions and public restaurant all ordered food at the same time it's easy as part of front of house staff to get high strung and severely stressed, especially since you have to deal with the kitchens frustrations as well as any unhappy guests. But you don't have to.

When it comes to guests I have a golden rule that is more or less full proof: 

- The most important thing as a waiter is to be your self. By being your self I mean caring. Listen, treat every person/table the way they want to be treated. It may be a few business people who don't want charm and won't want to be disturbed. Or it may be a couple, new to town who are quite talkative and curious about both you and the surrounding area. Feel your way. If it's a bigger group usually they have enough to talk about and you simply act as a preschool teacher and keep it organised and clean. 

As I mentioned, last night was fairly busy. Well busier than normal (since working as part of the sommelier team in a Michelin starred restaurant in London I know what busy is and more importantly - feels like). But personally the more busy it gets, the more calmer I feel. 

That comes from experience I reckon. 

Besides the technicality to service my secret is to win your guest over as soon as possible. Make them care about you. If they care about you they won't mind waiting a little extra for their food or even if you make a full on mistake. Just be honest and sincerely apologies. What people get angry with is the management or the company but if they like you they'll have much more sympathy. You become part of their evening. As humans I believe it's easier to get angry with someone or something that you haven't made a connection with. So waiters, make a connection and your guests will be on your side for the rest of the evening. If you know the food is going to be late due to a pressurised kitchen inform the table in question and apologies before hand. They will appreciate your sincerity and can only get positively surprised from now on. It is very important in that instance to lower expectations and over deliver. 

Some may disagree with me here but I believe it is more important to dare to take enough time with each table rather than run around trying to be efficient (if you're experienced enough you can do both). If they see you are being caring and skilful you've won them over. If you run around like a headless chicken and do less good all over - no one feel attended to, no one has recognised you and you'll end up having a whole unhappy room or station. 

Back to the initial statement.

Restaurant service is most certainly a great, great skill. I've worked hard learning to get better and better, but it is important to remember that it's people you are dealing with. Someone like you. People who are out to have a nice time. No one is gonna get hurt if they wait a little extra for their food. You can always keep them entertained or give them a little something on the house. There is no need to get stressed out due to a pressurised kitchen screaming at you. Understand their situation and the incredibly hard work they do, don't take it personally. Any issues should be dealt with after service, not in.

In my opinion - quality and human relations are both far more important than impersonal service and quantity.

x Charlotte

Do You Love Bubbles?

I had one of the most eye opening learning experiences earlier today while being part of a research project at Plumpton Wine Center College.
Told time and time again by seasoned wine judges galore - judging sparkling wine is bloody difficult! It's funny or even ironic since most of the wine appreciating world thoroughly enjoy the celebratory bubbly tipple.
By celebratory I mean  - whenever it is you may fancy affording it!

So why is judging quality in sparkling wine so tremendously difficult?
Well in the words of Richard Marchal, a Champagne Professor of Reims University, representing a somewhat too good to be true expertise on the subject: "Sparkling wine judging is like a punishment to many wine judges. The problem with judging bubbly wines are - the bubbles!

You gotta have an almost completely different approach approaching this subject. The tasting technique is based around having two glasses in front of you of the same wine. One that you nose, smell and taste beside one that is purposefully designed to show of and keep the mainstream of bubbles and foam for a maximum period of time. One glass you observe and one you taste.
Another important aspect is that you gotta start assessing the wine poured. Yes, the pouring time and effect in the glass is of tremendous importance judging the quality of the CO2 foam. It is the aspect and journey of the foam that determines any sparkling wine:

- First of all the shape of the glass makes a difference. Every glass actually has on a micro level a cracked base. What you want is a wide shape in the bottom to enable more cracks that becomes gas pockets. While the wine is poured these gas pockets form the basis of the effervescence we all desire in sparkling wine to develope. The triangle shapes of some wine flutes serve as an almost non existence base therefor deemed useless.
 Apparently the pouring technique is directly related to how long the foam will last. It's important to judge the first expression. Meaning both the foam in the glass and the initial foam/explosion in the mouth. Then you smell quickly without swirling. The first sip should be quite shallow in judgment. Focusing on foam explosion, texture of bubbles and balance between acidity and sugar. The next step is to watch the settlement of foam displaying and unravelling the showcase of crown and disc for a few minutes. Then you smell and might even swirl to evoke the "wine" in the wine. Taste again. Most probably you'll experience less foam and more aromatics. Look at mouthfeel quickly then spit. This is the important part in regards to intensity, length - even bitterness as that only shows at the end. Richard put weight on informing us acidity masks bittereness. The way that sugar masks acidity and vice versa.
The last thing you should do is to smother the inside of the glass with the last drop of wine. Heat and time should thoroughly and truthfully display the essence and quality of the base wine behind the bubbles.

Do you see the importance, complexity and difficulty of judging this type of wine?

x Charlotte

Previous blogg-post continued

http://www.csicop.org/si/show/biodynamics_in_the_wine_bottle

Why are some so ANGRY about BD? To the point of going out of their way to disprove it? Who is it harming? The article pointed to costs and labour. Well isn't that up to the grower it self to determine value? By pointing towards prices being higher in the market for these wines you are disrespecting the consumer suggesting it would pay for anything (well that could be correct for some). Whatever practise you as a vigneron choose to adapt, in the bottle - making good wine speaks for it self. Why are you then so worried about which of the agriculture philosophies that gets the most column inches?
Well I read the link you provided and, of course I understand the need for scientific proof and investigation. I am personally and proudly more spiritually lead. As I understand it Steiner actually based (used) his whole mission statement on historical farming techniques developed by people a hell of a lot older than us. (Paganism. Compare with how Romans, for instance, used established beliefs based on paganism to fuel power over people.) A time when men lived intimately closer to nature then we "modern" folks in general do now - living in concrete environments. I am not saying I have a firm belief. That's not the point I am making, The point I am making is that who are we to judge! Why can't there be different types of beliefs in agriculture? The same we have Buddhism, Christianity, Voodoo etc etc. Why are you so against respecting old practises? What is so fundamentally right with the new chemically cemented reality we live in? Concluding. My point is that I am tired of and not interested in pie throwing. I'd like to see as many different vine growing techniques coexist, all for the better of diversity and expression. The same way art does. The same way different human cultures do. The Natural movement shouldn't attack conventional practitioners - they should gladly share their knowledge but just do their thing - and let what's in the bottle speak for it self. And that goes for organic, lutte Raisonnee and conventional advocates too. C

Biodynamic, Organic, Lutte Raisonnée Conventional

I feel frustrated and worried.
The words above written all feel very loaded in the wine industry at the moment, and not in a good way.
I keep finding myself repeating the same phrase every time there's a debate or discussion between the different advocates: "Why are we looking at this subject in black and white, when surely most issues in the world range over different shades of grey?"
If you were to translate the war between different faiths in wine making and vine growing - to the war between different faiths in our human world. You'd be on very dangerous territory. So why is it acceptable to be so close minded and fearful in regards to some cosmic practises?

First of all I am in no way knowledgeable enough to take any stand scientifically or academically. But then again very few is. The reason for BD being a faith is because it has not yet been proven, let alone, disproved. Surely those who practises this labour intensive, long term and often low yielding practise are doing it because they feel it works? What part of the philosophy, preparations and moon fixation, that does or does not work is another question altogether.
In my view so far the most important thing in producing good quality wine, is through growing good quality grapes. Good quality grapes tends to grow on a well balanced healthy vine. Soil health and balance seem to be of vital importance and acts as base to the rest of the alchemy.
So saying that aren't one of the most important parts of the wine production the decision on how you treat you soil? Whether that is through biodynamic, organic or lutte raisonnée shouldn't really matter as long as the vigneron spends time in his/her vineyard in order to intimately know what it needs to thrive.
In humanity it seems we know so much about everything and if it's not scientifically proven it stands no ground. With all due respect we should all remind our selves of how little time we have graced this planet and this universe to dare to claim we got all the answers.

My aim in life is to keep open minded, always listen and learn.
As I understand it the Natural and BD movements are a response to the really badly conventionally grown vines out there. There seems to be a real fear and anger towards these movements, when there really should be none. Is it fear of lowering sales if the general public catches on?
At yesterdays "Great Grape Debate' between Monty Waldin and Richard Smart, none really got to the meat of things. It was more a rambling of different opinions. Such a shame. I hope there will be other organisations organising similar debates in the future.

Monty argued for the obvious sustainability focus in BD.
Richard Smart often agreed to these statements while at the same time expressing his concern that: "Biodynamics are only PR. Someone needs to take a stand for conventionalism."

Through my wine/vine studies at Plumpton College I will learn about the conventional way. I need to read Rudolf Steiner, Monty Waldin, Nicolas Joly and Olivier Humbrecht MW  in my spare time. Then I can take a stand. Till then I choose to be openminded towards both directions.

x Charlotte

Do you want to drink better wine?

With this post I wonder:
 - As a restauranteur. Do you choose the wines on your wine list. Or do the guests?

Let me explain.
I understand the primary reason for any choice being made in business. Money.
After that you look at strategy - long term versus short term.
Intertwined in all of these aspects lays identity. Interest, focus, perhaps uniqueness and even passion.
What I am trying to get my head around at the moment is the psychology behind choosing importers to source the DNA of your wine list from. If you are serious and have the investment and time, you go for several. Big and small importers. You pick and choose the way any artist would, to create a harmony. With balance, structure, power and that X Factor. On the other hand if you are small, you may want a list that is short, concise and let me say - basic and predictable.
Of course you could go that way, whether your offer is large or small.
My impression is there can be only two reasons for choosing this plan of attack.
1. You do not know much about wine, lack good advisor and so go for the easy obvious choices.
2.  You know more about the options that are out there, but believe that the customer/guest does not want to be challenged.

If you are restaurateur of the latter view you make me so sad!

In my opinion people DO want to be educated, challenged, taught, shown, guided. Whatever you want to call it. Even the the guests who think they do not want to.
Obviously the product needs to be of good quality, but the whole point of a restaurants cuisine and it's wine list is that you willingly get guided in to a new world of experiences. You will learn something new about what you enjoy.

At home you may do what you like. But in a restaurant I believe you should allow your self to be educated.

Back to my point. I rejoice when people like David Cross and Tim Lawrence at Estbek House in north-easternmost Yorkshire, thrive on a total antipodean list.
http://www.estbekhouse.co.uk/

It saddens me when other restaurateurs don't think more of the their guests.

x Charlotte

Where the wild fowl gather

Kooyong at Port Phillip Estate has won many accolades for their extraordinary cellar door. The look of  a spaceship, randomly landed in the Mornington Peninsula. For those who have not yet read the new James Halliday compilation - check for Winery of the Year under K.

Unfortunately the Pope of the Peninsula, that is Sandro Mosele, could not hold the presentation. His dear wife was literally in labour during our three hour visit. A boy we are told! Many and warm congratulations on behalf of the James Busby group. An heir has been born.

Well as we would find out, an heir to Port Phillip Estate may already be in place... Meet Tessa Brown:

Tessa has been the Assistant Winemaker for about three years, with an extensive background in Viticulture. In her one words, a few years back she joined the Dark Side completing a winemaking postgraduate.
She really and truly impressed us all with her confidently grounded style. Showing a real understanding of the international market and the issues Australia is facing today. Also handing us on silver plate - the description of the so called "Mod Oz Chardonnay" (Modern Australian Chardonnay Style):

"Pure, fine, mineral; linearity, finesse."

"Australian wine producers shouldn't go chasing the market. They must dare to be different and unique. Focusing on sense of place and longevity. Copying old world does not mean MAKING  the old world."


An integral and important part of our visit was to view and sense the well known iron stone specked soils of Ferrous. One fair thought by a participator in our group was - discussing minerality - iron SPECKED soil won't make that much impact(?). Well we all tasted the very unique characteristics of the Kooyong Ferrous Pinot Noir. In Ms. Tessa Browns own words the wine seems: "Curled up in a corner giving you the snake eye".

Look, this is the way my mind is viewing the situation:
Kooyong along with Mac Forbes and Giant Steps etc. (in the Yarra Valley) are All aiming towards showing the most honest expressions of the chosen grape varieties in particular soils.
In detail there are subtle differences.
Sandro was chosen as the Captain of Kooyong due to his skills and experience.
Most importantly he was given the freedom to investigate the greatest plots around the Peninsula and plant with the best suited variety. A journalist pointed out:
"Sandro Mosele is one of the luckiest people". Despite a wealthy company owner - he is and will remain one of the most greatly respected vignerons in this promising vine area. Partly due to the fact that he managed to bypass years of trial and error by choosing his sites so carefully.

On a personal note, spending time with the man and the woman of Kooyong - they both come a across as lovely and sensitive people.

I really respect their single vineyard expressions along with their future aim. I find honest pure, healthy wines with the ability to age. Producing Massale and Clonale Pinot Noir and Chardonnay they may be portraying Burgundy historical technique. But through a great viticulturist you identify individuality in vines, along with soil plots of special nature.

For me. My impression of Kooyong as a whole speaks of both the scientific and disciplined, financial aim; Intertwined with real skill and intuition.

In other words - a close to perfect environment for Sandro and Tessa.

Charlotte x

Back to Reality

It's been an amazing journey. From Sydney to Perth, via everything.

Still gathering my thoughts enough to write a little piece each, of our warm experience's, at the different wineries. Please bear with me.

Here's a little something in pictures:

Charlotte xxx

Concongella unearthed

Riding our coach, further and further away from the Great Western. Destination Mornington Peninsula.
It's been an incredible journey so far! Not even half way through I'd rather not count the days, I really don't want to think about this amazing adventure ever being over.
I had heard a fair amount of Best's before this visit, reason being Tim did a vintage with them in 2004 and has been in close contact ever since. Viv and Chris Thomson are the sweetest couple. So warm, friendly and generous.
Best's was founded in 1866 by Henry Best then sold to neighbour Frederick P. Thomson in 1920. They house some of the oldest, fully functioning vine plantings in the world. Pinot Noir planted in 1868 is believed to be the oldest known, and from a totally unique clone. But what I found most fascinating was - brace your selves - the nursery block, also planted in the 1860's containing these pre phylloxera varieties:
RED                                                                         WHITE
- Tinta Amarella                                                        - Fermint
- Auburn                                                                   - Palamino
- Grec Rose                                                               - Fer
- Cangnan                                                                  - Chasselas
- Dolcetto                                                                  - Muscadelle
- Shiraz                                                                      - Dourado
- Cabernet Sauvignon                                                - Ondenc
- Cinsaut                                                                    - Troyen
- Morocan Noir                                                          - Gueche
- Mataro                                                                     - Gouais
- Gamay                                                                     - Calitor Blanc
- Pinot Noir                                                                - Chenin Blanc
- Sauvignonasse                                                         - Gordo
- Olvette Noir                                                             - Piquepouln
- Meunier                                                                    - Bourboulenc
                                                                                   - Sauvignon Blanc
                                                                                   - Frankenthal

Plus eight varieties they have not yet been able to identify.
Their Shiraz is also unique, being named "Best's clone".

Ben Thomson, 5th generation and the vineyards viticulturalist takes a very sensible approach. Trying to use as little chemicals and irrigation as possible, working more on the tractor and canopy management. Although he wishes: "Nature should be a bloke. You could just take him down the pub and talk it over. Mother Nature on the other hand - just does what she likes."

Especially tasting through old vine Pinot Mernier we were contemplating terrior and country. It felt we traveled west and ended up in Europe. Dolcetto shining like a star too. Full of savouryness and those dusty fruit characters with great freshness and elegance. And to think some people I know and some I have worked with, believe Australia has got no terrior. Arrogance is easy.

We tried some young Pinot Gris, totally new to the range and only just bottled the day before. Fantastic!
Really clean and fresh as you'd expect of a Grigio, balanced with a textural mouthfeel lending to a welcomed little body.
Their Riesling has got the tangy acidity and focus of Clare Valley, with the body and structure of a German style, without high residual.

Viv kindly took us through a highly educational BinO Shiraz component tasting.
Five barrel samples from five different ages of plantings:
- 1868, some rusticity and spice with fresh fruit and lavender floralness. Crushed whole berries.
- 1966 (Bart's vineyard = son), wholebunch. Warm spice with some sweetness in the lavender raspberry fruit. Tangyness and minerality.
- 1970 (Marcus vineyard = youngest son), creamy and dustyness. Fruity fresh and earthy.
- 1993 (on hill, gravely soil), in a reduced state atm. Gunsmoke, light body with good intensity.
- 1994 (on hill, gravely soil), darker color with oak toast.

Wondering how the final blend will look and taste.

Here are some photo's, as sometimes they speak louder than words:

                                           The crew

                                           Viv Thomson and I...

                                                       Lovely and special.

X Charlotte
                                     

To acidify or not to acidify?

That is the question. The answer is determined by how accurate you are at picking at the right time. Picking at the right time is measured by reaching physiological and flavor ripeness while keeping maximum amount of acidity. In the Hunter Valley you avoid massive sugar accumulation, and strangely successfully so when the heat summation here, we have been told, is higher then the Barossa. How does that add up?

The popular view is that commonly occurring cloud formations shield the strong sunlight and slows down the photosynthesis while the warmth still ripens the berries.

While talking to Kieth Tullock, Andrew Margan, Damian (Brokenwood) and Scott (McWilliams) it quite quickly became apparent that they did not adhere to such a statement.
Semillon is an early flowering grape that in this case grows in a region where early flowering already occurs. Flavor ripeness builds very fast which enables growers to pick “early” and therefor retain that attractive acidity. Officially Hunter is  warm maritime so benefits from breezes from the nearby ocean.

What I found most interesting was talking about the Semillon grapevine itself. Apparently it is considered weak, weak in it’s root system and canes. The sandy white soils help the roots grow deeper and hand picking protects the canes from breaking during machine harvest. A very special thing about the biology of the vine is that when the temperatures reach very high, the stomata does not close like other varieties would do. The vine just keeps working. On a negative note Bruce was telling us he once saw massive shriveling going on, not due to passillerage, due to the contained water basically evaporating while the vines respiratory system kept open when it should have closed.

Speaking of soils:
White sandy = suits white grape varieties
Red clay = Shiraz
There are also patches of volcanic red soil blended in.

Hunter Semillon is typically  tight in its youth but develops complex toasty, nutty and honeyed aromas with age.
I think we all agree that the biggest revelation was tasting through Tyrrells shiraaa.
Yes, here it is called Shiraaa not Shiraz. To quote Bruce Tyrrell himself: “Shiraz is for the barbarians in South Australia”. So there you have it...
Both his whites and reds sing of true purity, elegance and quality. We tasted through pretty much the top tier ranging from 1999 to 2011.
Despite the absolutely amazing age of the plantings - most of the single vineyard wines did not get produced until about 5-7 years ago. Disregarding the Vat47 Chardonnay.
The oldest vines in the Hunter come from the Old Block and was planted 1867. Original cuttings from Hermitage, the story goes it might even have been from La Chapelle...
Seemingly suitable it was James Busby himself who brought them there.
Other single vineyards are:
Jhonnos’, planted in 1908
Stevens, 1865-1911
Belford, 1933
HDV, 1908

Back to the reds. Gently pressed, aged in large foudra's and using an especially quick pump over method, they manage to produce wines with good color and depth. The old vines lends to a tight knitted composition that lets the flavor stay in the mouth for much longer than most wines you will ever try.
We were still exchanging tasting sensations while getting on the coach.

Hunter Valley was an utter revelation. Why so unfashionable?

Charlotte x

Up up and away...

New South Wales ended up being the topic of today, thanks to James Gosper of Wine Australia. The James Busby Travel 2011 crew has officially landed in Sydney!

The goal of today was introductory. Brunch at Bills's seemed so right and so Sydney. Those corn fritters were flying around with the most gorgeous flat white's. It was a great feet on behalf of the staff to fit us in and to accommodate as they normally do not take any bookings on weekends. So please share a hands of applause to the extraordinary friendly team on Crown Street. 

                                           Yes, to die for

                                           The crew

A great start, followed by meeting up with James - Mr. Wine Australia after Paul Henry. His background being as chief winemaker at Chandon and as marketing director for Moet Chandon New York, he felt eager getting back to his roots in Sydney. First dinner excited us quite rightly ascending on The Thai House - a traditional northern country kinda cooking with (cough) BYO. Apparently it's pretty hip to eat this cuisine in town and it doesn't disappoint, just surprise. Deep fried fermented fish and dill got me quite confused as to which country I was in. Normally or most knowingly, which country do you associate fish and dill with?

Well either way, gracefully shown by James and Tim, we tried a range of different styles. Mainly focusing on NSW. Here's what was saying hello:

Chandon Brut

Freeman Pinot Gris Plus. Fortuna  - 09;  Cool Hilltop region. 30 year old vines with low yields, producing a textural and balanced wine. (Plus = Pinot Gris, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and aleatico)  

Uberblanc, Riesling, Tazmania - 07:
 - (Sure it's not SB?) Green nettle noted on nose and palate. Fresh and detailed.

Freeman, Rondinella and Corvina, Secco (traditionally dried grapes) - 07. 

It ages for a few years then settles in to a "suspended animation". This wine can age further. Not great complexity, but fab dried fruit aromas with balanced savoury oak.

A. Reitief, Savignon Blanc and Semillon - 10, Canberra; Nice texture and mouthfeel. With some green notes.

Then Andrew W. Thomas, who made wine at Tyrrell's! Focusing on freshness, pureness; great detail and structure - restrained use of new oak with minimal intervention.

Eden Road. Tumbarumba chardonnay - 08:  Great structure, focus and austerity.

x Charlotte

Travel fever

Does that mean the same thing in english as it does in swedish?
Well for me it means trouble sleeping and general unrest, creating a huge mess around the house while packing.  Is there anyone sympathising with me?

Don't get me wrong, I absolutely adore traveling. Especially when air ports and air planes are involved. It elevates such an elevating feeling of freedom, positivity and independence. Those who know me can confess I take any opportunity to get through check in several hours before I need to. The sensation of relief handing over the carefully, to the limit, packed suitcase. I take a deep breath, the world seems slower and in the moment as I glide through customs ...
From here on I am at peace. I love airports. The anticipation of an adventure, of living. I feel most as myself when I am traveling.
Ever since I can remember I've never been frightened of flying. Quite the opposite, it's a certain high. Euphoria!
You'll find me sitting at the window gazing out smiling, enjoying every move every moment of the aircraft building it's power and momentum to ultimately take off. All of a sudden... we are light as air!
My father is a Captain on an aircraft. Could that has something to do with it?
That is surely presumptuous of me as I am certainly far from alone, sharing the sensation of this indulgence.

I sit here at the kitchen table writing this, the kitchen table at our home in Lewes.
Thinking I should sleep. I am getting up in four hours. But I can't.

Tomorrow I head to Sydney, Australia.
The day after that the rest of The James Busby Travel group arrives, and the adventure takes off.

Charlotte x

an autumn wine, and a very good time

                                                     A glass of gold?


I have not had much to write about lately.
I guess that's partly due to us settling in to Lewes and partly - there's not that much happening around here.
Hold on. Just had an epiphany writing that. There is lots going on around here. This is actually a lovely town with a great buzz. Buzzing of markets, festivals; musical and cultural talent. End of harvest has been widely celebrated. October Fest and such. We live close to the local football stadium and hear cheers on a regular basis. I could go on.
The point I am making - I should make more effort attending some activities. Get to know people as it really does seem like a friendly place. @VivaLewis on Twitter are great at informing and updating the calendar on a daily basis.

The "Symposium Wine Emporium" (yes, that is the name) is a brand new and ambitious independent wine merchant owned and run by two former Wine Business students at Plumpton College. Click http://www.symposium-finewine.co.uk/
They offer a few wines on glass, as well as the choice to buy a full bottle from their selection. Pay corkage to drink in house with a selection of sharing platters. Very modern.
They also pop open a bottle or four a day for you to taste. Well worth a visit. I certainly have.

On a personal note I sing! I have been asking around for a good choir and it seems to be many. So hopefully by the time I get back from this years James Busby Travel tour, I will have found the right place to exercise this huge part of my soul.

Speaking of...

It's drawing near and I am starting to feel really excited. It's been a long wait. This year will see wine buyers, sommeliers and journalists from all over the world - New York, India and my own dear country. Sweden is a very important market to reach and influence. The distinguished journalist joining us is none other than Jan Petterson. Jan is the writer for "Livets Goda", the biggest and most important Swedish wine magazine, reaching both trade and public. I have been told it's gonna be at least a nine page spread article covering this years tour and Australia. Brilliant! http://www.livetsgoda.se/

I can't wait to put my feet on down under soil. Stepping in to the role of photo and camera woman extraordinaire. ;)

My partner is flying out tomorrow already. He is this years international judge at the Melbourne Wine Show, and I am so proud of him. http://www.wineshow.com.au/pdf/International_Judges_appointment_June_2011.pdf

I've got studies and work to keep up so I will be heading out on the October the 20th, a day before the rest of the group. Starting in Sydney we will travel through:
- Hunter valley
- Yarra Valley
- Goulbourn Valley, Heathcote and Macedon Ranges
- Great Western
- Mornington Peninsula
- Clare Valley and McLaren Vale
- Barossa Valley
- Margaret River

Phew!

http://jamesbusbytravel.com/

I will keep you updated during the adventure.

In the mean time here's the answer to what was in the glass, you saw at the top of this page:

                                             
Nope, just a glass of Leon Barral 2009 (Faugeres, Languedoc). A luscious blend of 80% Terret Gris and Blanc with Viognier and Roussane making up the rest. Grown from 90 year old vines with strict triage with yields of 15hl/ha . Fermented in cement vats with natural yeast, aged in barrels with 1/3 new oak. Gone through malo. No filtration or fining - Didier, the producer, is apparently strongly against this kind of abuse to a wine. How does he feel about the modern bottling process?

"All you need is a north wind and an old moon"

To qoute Doug Wregg of "Les Caves de Pyrene":

- Biodynamic ntense dry white with a mix of sherry and honey aromatics and incredibly pure citrus-flecked palate. Worth broaching a celebratory lobster or regal turbot for, otherwise carafe it, turn down the lights and let it have it's wicked way with you.

Charlotte x

                             

A rant

Natural, authentic, naturally made, naturally authentic...

"Beloved child has got many names"

(Kart barn har manga namn)

-Swedish saying

Or just plain faulty and undrinkable. 

Why do so many people in the wine industry feel the need to pick side in the Natural versus Conventional wine debate? What happened with diversity? Freedom of choice? Freedom of expression?

Who is important enough to sit on a pedestal and decide what we should drink? When I attend WSET classes I am strongly told that we do not mention "that beast", when asking whether we will cover the subject at all. How can the worlds most renowned Wine and Spirits Educational Trust not mirror reality, not even take notice of a certain style of wine making? I very much understand that it is a terribly complex idea to bring in to class when you are trying to make sense and teach the rules of this art. But at least acknowledge it's existence and encourage students to look it up on their spare time.

It sounds like I have chosen a side, while I can assure you I really haven't. I am simply utterly tired of the pie throwing.

What needs to go away is any type of snobbery. In all honesty, through my personal experience working as a sommelier in London, I've seen most of that attitude amongst the natural advocates.

The truth is there are both good and bad conventional or natural wines.

Why can't all philosophies of making wine - coexist?

What is so offensive about grape juice that is so alive it gives of natural aromas "faults". The petillant style still fermenting in the bottle to grace you with some soft bubbles upon opening. Actually writing that it sounds quite weird to be honest. But personally I'd drink that any day, rather than trying to suck wine through a piece of wood - the sensation a lot of red oaked monsters share. 

I wonder why the wine journalists of today does not attack the new era of s.k "Light Wines". Basically alcopops  in disguise. Or even the world of badly mass produced wines were more or less all the flavours are purely additives etc. (I am not all clued up on the chemistry YET so I'll let someone else explain the actual details).

No, they rather pick on the "new guy". 

Sigh...

Look wine, as in art, as in life has got many different expressions right? The more the merrier. Let people drink what they like, because there is surely a market for these deliciously "faulty" wines. If you don't like it - don't drink it! But please stop throwing your toys out of the pram just because Natural Wine has taken the seat as the popular kid for now.

In my experience the things that threaten you most are things you feel the need to attack.

Picked for the very first time

                                                     Little Buddha...


And I really, really enjoyed it. Even though I managed to be the first "casualty" i.e cutting my finger with the snips. Surely there must be some kind of prize for that?

We were tasked to pick a parcel of Rondo which is a hybrid. Mother: Saperavi Severnyi (which has got a V.Amurensis parent) Father: St. Laurent
It's a fairly full bodied red grape with descent structure. While tasting it I found the skin a bit tough and spicy. Veraison and harvest occurs early with this variety so a type certainly suitable for the English climate.
The most interesting part was to see the state of the vineyard. There were not much grapes to pick due to the fact that birds and wasps had been there already. Apparently they work as a stealth team causing immense damage. The birds pick at grapes and causes the skin to brake, then for the wasps to fly in after and literally suck them dry. A whole new way of shrivelling grapes. Fascinating! See Below.

                                                           

As you can understand it's highly damaging for the crop, but purely as a learning exercise it was amazing. This is how you learn. Anyone can snip of healthy clusters one after the other. But having to literally groom each one, according to how many grapes were healthy, sometimes only snipping a single grape from a cluster and throw the rest away - that's another feat altogether. Very cool indeed.
Unfortunately one guy got stung TWICE, while I'm glad I only got to let out a very girly shreak when realising the grape I thought I held was actually a pretty angry wasp.

Since this batch was particularly small we also picked some random red grapes to go in the blend. To the right you'll find Dornfelder: A grape of German origin. A cross between Helfensteiner and Heroldrebe. Trollinger is a grandparent which might be more recognisable.
In the words of Jamie Goode he was first introduced to this wine being presented as something non red wine drinkers would like. What does that tell you? Yes, it is very bland. Virtually no tannin, not much acid but good colour.

Another very interesting thing to experience was picking Cascade: A french-American hybrid and a little troublesome one at that. It's quite pale and low in acidity. Very susceptible to viruses and buds quite late. I am thinking that perhaps the latter is the reason for why it's clusters took a bit of a beating this year.
Apparently it was a particularly early starting season. But then it got really cold again. Uneven flowering and some fruit not set lead to what you can see below. A very difficult cluster to tidy up. Hopefully the crusher/destemmer managed to do a better job.


I have added a few more photos but would like to apologies for the poor quality.

                                         Dave Perrin - Vineyard Instructor

                                         2nd year student @ Crusher/Destemmer

                                                     Stems etc.

x Charlotte