Concongella unearthed

Riding our coach, further and further away from the Great Western. Destination Mornington Peninsula.
It's been an incredible journey so far! Not even half way through I'd rather not count the days, I really don't want to think about this amazing adventure ever being over.
I had heard a fair amount of Best's before this visit, reason being Tim did a vintage with them in 2004 and has been in close contact ever since. Viv and Chris Thomson are the sweetest couple. So warm, friendly and generous.
Best's was founded in 1866 by Henry Best then sold to neighbour Frederick P. Thomson in 1920. They house some of the oldest, fully functioning vine plantings in the world. Pinot Noir planted in 1868 is believed to be the oldest known, and from a totally unique clone. But what I found most fascinating was - brace your selves - the nursery block, also planted in the 1860's containing these pre phylloxera varieties:
RED                                                                         WHITE
- Tinta Amarella                                                        - Fermint
- Auburn                                                                   - Palamino
- Grec Rose                                                               - Fer
- Cangnan                                                                  - Chasselas
- Dolcetto                                                                  - Muscadelle
- Shiraz                                                                      - Dourado
- Cabernet Sauvignon                                                - Ondenc
- Cinsaut                                                                    - Troyen
- Morocan Noir                                                          - Gueche
- Mataro                                                                     - Gouais
- Gamay                                                                     - Calitor Blanc
- Pinot Noir                                                                - Chenin Blanc
- Sauvignonasse                                                         - Gordo
- Olvette Noir                                                             - Piquepouln
- Meunier                                                                    - Bourboulenc
                                                                                   - Sauvignon Blanc
                                                                                   - Frankenthal

Plus eight varieties they have not yet been able to identify.
Their Shiraz is also unique, being named "Best's clone".

Ben Thomson, 5th generation and the vineyards viticulturalist takes a very sensible approach. Trying to use as little chemicals and irrigation as possible, working more on the tractor and canopy management. Although he wishes: "Nature should be a bloke. You could just take him down the pub and talk it over. Mother Nature on the other hand - just does what she likes."

Especially tasting through old vine Pinot Mernier we were contemplating terrior and country. It felt we traveled west and ended up in Europe. Dolcetto shining like a star too. Full of savouryness and those dusty fruit characters with great freshness and elegance. And to think some people I know and some I have worked with, believe Australia has got no terrior. Arrogance is easy.

We tried some young Pinot Gris, totally new to the range and only just bottled the day before. Fantastic!
Really clean and fresh as you'd expect of a Grigio, balanced with a textural mouthfeel lending to a welcomed little body.
Their Riesling has got the tangy acidity and focus of Clare Valley, with the body and structure of a German style, without high residual.

Viv kindly took us through a highly educational BinO Shiraz component tasting.
Five barrel samples from five different ages of plantings:
- 1868, some rusticity and spice with fresh fruit and lavender floralness. Crushed whole berries.
- 1966 (Bart's vineyard = son), wholebunch. Warm spice with some sweetness in the lavender raspberry fruit. Tangyness and minerality.
- 1970 (Marcus vineyard = youngest son), creamy and dustyness. Fruity fresh and earthy.
- 1993 (on hill, gravely soil), in a reduced state atm. Gunsmoke, light body with good intensity.
- 1994 (on hill, gravely soil), darker color with oak toast.

Wondering how the final blend will look and taste.

Here are some photo's, as sometimes they speak louder than words:

                                           The crew

                                           Viv Thomson and I...

                                                       Lovely and special.

X Charlotte
                                     

To acidify or not to acidify?

That is the question. The answer is determined by how accurate you are at picking at the right time. Picking at the right time is measured by reaching physiological and flavor ripeness while keeping maximum amount of acidity. In the Hunter Valley you avoid massive sugar accumulation, and strangely successfully so when the heat summation here, we have been told, is higher then the Barossa. How does that add up?

The popular view is that commonly occurring cloud formations shield the strong sunlight and slows down the photosynthesis while the warmth still ripens the berries.

While talking to Kieth Tullock, Andrew Margan, Damian (Brokenwood) and Scott (McWilliams) it quite quickly became apparent that they did not adhere to such a statement.
Semillon is an early flowering grape that in this case grows in a region where early flowering already occurs. Flavor ripeness builds very fast which enables growers to pick “early” and therefor retain that attractive acidity. Officially Hunter is  warm maritime so benefits from breezes from the nearby ocean.

What I found most interesting was talking about the Semillon grapevine itself. Apparently it is considered weak, weak in it’s root system and canes. The sandy white soils help the roots grow deeper and hand picking protects the canes from breaking during machine harvest. A very special thing about the biology of the vine is that when the temperatures reach very high, the stomata does not close like other varieties would do. The vine just keeps working. On a negative note Bruce was telling us he once saw massive shriveling going on, not due to passillerage, due to the contained water basically evaporating while the vines respiratory system kept open when it should have closed.

Speaking of soils:
White sandy = suits white grape varieties
Red clay = Shiraz
There are also patches of volcanic red soil blended in.

Hunter Semillon is typically  tight in its youth but develops complex toasty, nutty and honeyed aromas with age.
I think we all agree that the biggest revelation was tasting through Tyrrells shiraaa.
Yes, here it is called Shiraaa not Shiraz. To quote Bruce Tyrrell himself: “Shiraz is for the barbarians in South Australia”. So there you have it...
Both his whites and reds sing of true purity, elegance and quality. We tasted through pretty much the top tier ranging from 1999 to 2011.
Despite the absolutely amazing age of the plantings - most of the single vineyard wines did not get produced until about 5-7 years ago. Disregarding the Vat47 Chardonnay.
The oldest vines in the Hunter come from the Old Block and was planted 1867. Original cuttings from Hermitage, the story goes it might even have been from La Chapelle...
Seemingly suitable it was James Busby himself who brought them there.
Other single vineyards are:
Jhonnos’, planted in 1908
Stevens, 1865-1911
Belford, 1933
HDV, 1908

Back to the reds. Gently pressed, aged in large foudra's and using an especially quick pump over method, they manage to produce wines with good color and depth. The old vines lends to a tight knitted composition that lets the flavor stay in the mouth for much longer than most wines you will ever try.
We were still exchanging tasting sensations while getting on the coach.

Hunter Valley was an utter revelation. Why so unfashionable?

Charlotte x

Up up and away...

New South Wales ended up being the topic of today, thanks to James Gosper of Wine Australia. The James Busby Travel 2011 crew has officially landed in Sydney!

The goal of today was introductory. Brunch at Bills's seemed so right and so Sydney. Those corn fritters were flying around with the most gorgeous flat white's. It was a great feet on behalf of the staff to fit us in and to accommodate as they normally do not take any bookings on weekends. So please share a hands of applause to the extraordinary friendly team on Crown Street. 

                                           Yes, to die for

                                           The crew

A great start, followed by meeting up with James - Mr. Wine Australia after Paul Henry. His background being as chief winemaker at Chandon and as marketing director for Moet Chandon New York, he felt eager getting back to his roots in Sydney. First dinner excited us quite rightly ascending on The Thai House - a traditional northern country kinda cooking with (cough) BYO. Apparently it's pretty hip to eat this cuisine in town and it doesn't disappoint, just surprise. Deep fried fermented fish and dill got me quite confused as to which country I was in. Normally or most knowingly, which country do you associate fish and dill with?

Well either way, gracefully shown by James and Tim, we tried a range of different styles. Mainly focusing on NSW. Here's what was saying hello:

Chandon Brut

Freeman Pinot Gris Plus. Fortuna  - 09;  Cool Hilltop region. 30 year old vines with low yields, producing a textural and balanced wine. (Plus = Pinot Gris, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and aleatico)  

Uberblanc, Riesling, Tazmania - 07:
 - (Sure it's not SB?) Green nettle noted on nose and palate. Fresh and detailed.

Freeman, Rondinella and Corvina, Secco (traditionally dried grapes) - 07. 

It ages for a few years then settles in to a "suspended animation". This wine can age further. Not great complexity, but fab dried fruit aromas with balanced savoury oak.

A. Reitief, Savignon Blanc and Semillon - 10, Canberra; Nice texture and mouthfeel. With some green notes.

Then Andrew W. Thomas, who made wine at Tyrrell's! Focusing on freshness, pureness; great detail and structure - restrained use of new oak with minimal intervention.

Eden Road. Tumbarumba chardonnay - 08:  Great structure, focus and austerity.

x Charlotte

Travel fever

Does that mean the same thing in english as it does in swedish?
Well for me it means trouble sleeping and general unrest, creating a huge mess around the house while packing.  Is there anyone sympathising with me?

Don't get me wrong, I absolutely adore traveling. Especially when air ports and air planes are involved. It elevates such an elevating feeling of freedom, positivity and independence. Those who know me can confess I take any opportunity to get through check in several hours before I need to. The sensation of relief handing over the carefully, to the limit, packed suitcase. I take a deep breath, the world seems slower and in the moment as I glide through customs ...
From here on I am at peace. I love airports. The anticipation of an adventure, of living. I feel most as myself when I am traveling.
Ever since I can remember I've never been frightened of flying. Quite the opposite, it's a certain high. Euphoria!
You'll find me sitting at the window gazing out smiling, enjoying every move every moment of the aircraft building it's power and momentum to ultimately take off. All of a sudden... we are light as air!
My father is a Captain on an aircraft. Could that has something to do with it?
That is surely presumptuous of me as I am certainly far from alone, sharing the sensation of this indulgence.

I sit here at the kitchen table writing this, the kitchen table at our home in Lewes.
Thinking I should sleep. I am getting up in four hours. But I can't.

Tomorrow I head to Sydney, Australia.
The day after that the rest of The James Busby Travel group arrives, and the adventure takes off.

Charlotte x

an autumn wine, and a very good time

                                                     A glass of gold?


I have not had much to write about lately.
I guess that's partly due to us settling in to Lewes and partly - there's not that much happening around here.
Hold on. Just had an epiphany writing that. There is lots going on around here. This is actually a lovely town with a great buzz. Buzzing of markets, festivals; musical and cultural talent. End of harvest has been widely celebrated. October Fest and such. We live close to the local football stadium and hear cheers on a regular basis. I could go on.
The point I am making - I should make more effort attending some activities. Get to know people as it really does seem like a friendly place. @VivaLewis on Twitter are great at informing and updating the calendar on a daily basis.

The "Symposium Wine Emporium" (yes, that is the name) is a brand new and ambitious independent wine merchant owned and run by two former Wine Business students at Plumpton College. Click http://www.symposium-finewine.co.uk/
They offer a few wines on glass, as well as the choice to buy a full bottle from their selection. Pay corkage to drink in house with a selection of sharing platters. Very modern.
They also pop open a bottle or four a day for you to taste. Well worth a visit. I certainly have.

On a personal note I sing! I have been asking around for a good choir and it seems to be many. So hopefully by the time I get back from this years James Busby Travel tour, I will have found the right place to exercise this huge part of my soul.

Speaking of...

It's drawing near and I am starting to feel really excited. It's been a long wait. This year will see wine buyers, sommeliers and journalists from all over the world - New York, India and my own dear country. Sweden is a very important market to reach and influence. The distinguished journalist joining us is none other than Jan Petterson. Jan is the writer for "Livets Goda", the biggest and most important Swedish wine magazine, reaching both trade and public. I have been told it's gonna be at least a nine page spread article covering this years tour and Australia. Brilliant! http://www.livetsgoda.se/

I can't wait to put my feet on down under soil. Stepping in to the role of photo and camera woman extraordinaire. ;)

My partner is flying out tomorrow already. He is this years international judge at the Melbourne Wine Show, and I am so proud of him. http://www.wineshow.com.au/pdf/International_Judges_appointment_June_2011.pdf

I've got studies and work to keep up so I will be heading out on the October the 20th, a day before the rest of the group. Starting in Sydney we will travel through:
- Hunter valley
- Yarra Valley
- Goulbourn Valley, Heathcote and Macedon Ranges
- Great Western
- Mornington Peninsula
- Clare Valley and McLaren Vale
- Barossa Valley
- Margaret River

Phew!

http://jamesbusbytravel.com/

I will keep you updated during the adventure.

In the mean time here's the answer to what was in the glass, you saw at the top of this page:

                                             
Nope, just a glass of Leon Barral 2009 (Faugeres, Languedoc). A luscious blend of 80% Terret Gris and Blanc with Viognier and Roussane making up the rest. Grown from 90 year old vines with strict triage with yields of 15hl/ha . Fermented in cement vats with natural yeast, aged in barrels with 1/3 new oak. Gone through malo. No filtration or fining - Didier, the producer, is apparently strongly against this kind of abuse to a wine. How does he feel about the modern bottling process?

"All you need is a north wind and an old moon"

To qoute Doug Wregg of "Les Caves de Pyrene":

- Biodynamic ntense dry white with a mix of sherry and honey aromatics and incredibly pure citrus-flecked palate. Worth broaching a celebratory lobster or regal turbot for, otherwise carafe it, turn down the lights and let it have it's wicked way with you.

Charlotte x

                             

A rant

Natural, authentic, naturally made, naturally authentic...

"Beloved child has got many names"

(Kart barn har manga namn)

-Swedish saying

Or just plain faulty and undrinkable. 

Why do so many people in the wine industry feel the need to pick side in the Natural versus Conventional wine debate? What happened with diversity? Freedom of choice? Freedom of expression?

Who is important enough to sit on a pedestal and decide what we should drink? When I attend WSET classes I am strongly told that we do not mention "that beast", when asking whether we will cover the subject at all. How can the worlds most renowned Wine and Spirits Educational Trust not mirror reality, not even take notice of a certain style of wine making? I very much understand that it is a terribly complex idea to bring in to class when you are trying to make sense and teach the rules of this art. But at least acknowledge it's existence and encourage students to look it up on their spare time.

It sounds like I have chosen a side, while I can assure you I really haven't. I am simply utterly tired of the pie throwing.

What needs to go away is any type of snobbery. In all honesty, through my personal experience working as a sommelier in London, I've seen most of that attitude amongst the natural advocates.

The truth is there are both good and bad conventional or natural wines.

Why can't all philosophies of making wine - coexist?

What is so offensive about grape juice that is so alive it gives of natural aromas "faults". The petillant style still fermenting in the bottle to grace you with some soft bubbles upon opening. Actually writing that it sounds quite weird to be honest. But personally I'd drink that any day, rather than trying to suck wine through a piece of wood - the sensation a lot of red oaked monsters share. 

I wonder why the wine journalists of today does not attack the new era of s.k "Light Wines". Basically alcopops  in disguise. Or even the world of badly mass produced wines were more or less all the flavours are purely additives etc. (I am not all clued up on the chemistry YET so I'll let someone else explain the actual details).

No, they rather pick on the "new guy". 

Sigh...

Look wine, as in art, as in life has got many different expressions right? The more the merrier. Let people drink what they like, because there is surely a market for these deliciously "faulty" wines. If you don't like it - don't drink it! But please stop throwing your toys out of the pram just because Natural Wine has taken the seat as the popular kid for now.

In my experience the things that threaten you most are things you feel the need to attack.