It's been an incredible journey so far! Not even half way through I'd rather not count the days, I really don't want to think about this amazing adventure ever being over.
I had heard a fair amount of Best's before this visit, reason being Tim did a vintage with them in 2004 and has been in close contact ever since. Viv and Chris Thomson are the sweetest couple. So warm, friendly and generous.
Best's was founded in 1866 by Henry Best then sold to neighbour Frederick P. Thomson in 1920. They house some of the oldest, fully functioning vine plantings in the world. Pinot Noir planted in 1868 is believed to be the oldest known, and from a totally unique clone. But what I found most fascinating was - brace your selves - the nursery block, also planted in the 1860's containing these pre phylloxera varieties:
RED WHITE
- Tinta Amarella - Fermint
- Auburn - Palamino
- Grec Rose - Fer
- Cangnan - Chasselas
- Dolcetto - Muscadelle
- Shiraz - Dourado
- Cabernet Sauvignon - Ondenc
- Cinsaut - Troyen
- Morocan Noir - Gueche
- Mataro - Gouais
- Gamay - Calitor Blanc
- Pinot Noir - Chenin Blanc
- Sauvignonasse - Gordo
- Olvette Noir - Piquepouln
- Meunier - Bourboulenc
- Sauvignon Blanc
- Frankenthal
Plus eight varieties they have not yet been able to identify.
Their Shiraz is also unique, being named "Best's clone".
Ben Thomson, 5th generation and the vineyards viticulturalist takes a very sensible approach. Trying to use as little chemicals and irrigation as possible, working more on the tractor and canopy management. Although he wishes: "Nature should be a bloke. You could just take him down the pub and talk it over. Mother Nature on the other hand - just does what she likes."
Especially tasting through old vine Pinot Mernier we were contemplating terrior and country. It felt we traveled west and ended up in Europe. Dolcetto shining like a star too. Full of savouryness and those dusty fruit characters with great freshness and elegance. And to think some people I know and some I have worked with, believe Australia has got no terrior. Arrogance is easy.
We tried some young Pinot Gris, totally new to the range and only just bottled the day before. Fantastic!
Really clean and fresh as you'd expect of a Grigio, balanced with a textural mouthfeel lending to a welcomed little body.
Their Riesling has got the tangy acidity and focus of Clare Valley, with the body and structure of a German style, without high residual.
Viv kindly took us through a highly educational BinO Shiraz component tasting.
Five barrel samples from five different ages of plantings:
- 1868, some rusticity and spice with fresh fruit and lavender floralness. Crushed whole berries.
- 1966 (Bart's vineyard = son), wholebunch. Warm spice with some sweetness in the lavender raspberry fruit. Tangyness and minerality.
- 1970 (Marcus vineyard = youngest son), creamy and dustyness. Fruity fresh and earthy.
- 1993 (on hill, gravely soil), in a reduced state atm. Gunsmoke, light body with good intensity.
- 1994 (on hill, gravely soil), darker color with oak toast.
Wondering how the final blend will look and taste.
Here are some photo's, as sometimes they speak louder than words:
X Charlotte
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