To acidify or not to acidify?

That is the question. The answer is determined by how accurate you are at picking at the right time. Picking at the right time is measured by reaching physiological and flavor ripeness while keeping maximum amount of acidity. In the Hunter Valley you avoid massive sugar accumulation, and strangely successfully so when the heat summation here, we have been told, is higher then the Barossa. How does that add up?

The popular view is that commonly occurring cloud formations shield the strong sunlight and slows down the photosynthesis while the warmth still ripens the berries.

While talking to Kieth Tullock, Andrew Margan, Damian (Brokenwood) and Scott (McWilliams) it quite quickly became apparent that they did not adhere to such a statement.
Semillon is an early flowering grape that in this case grows in a region where early flowering already occurs. Flavor ripeness builds very fast which enables growers to pick “early” and therefor retain that attractive acidity. Officially Hunter is  warm maritime so benefits from breezes from the nearby ocean.

What I found most interesting was talking about the Semillon grapevine itself. Apparently it is considered weak, weak in it’s root system and canes. The sandy white soils help the roots grow deeper and hand picking protects the canes from breaking during machine harvest. A very special thing about the biology of the vine is that when the temperatures reach very high, the stomata does not close like other varieties would do. The vine just keeps working. On a negative note Bruce was telling us he once saw massive shriveling going on, not due to passillerage, due to the contained water basically evaporating while the vines respiratory system kept open when it should have closed.

Speaking of soils:
White sandy = suits white grape varieties
Red clay = Shiraz
There are also patches of volcanic red soil blended in.

Hunter Semillon is typically  tight in its youth but develops complex toasty, nutty and honeyed aromas with age.
I think we all agree that the biggest revelation was tasting through Tyrrells shiraaa.
Yes, here it is called Shiraaa not Shiraz. To quote Bruce Tyrrell himself: “Shiraz is for the barbarians in South Australia”. So there you have it...
Both his whites and reds sing of true purity, elegance and quality. We tasted through pretty much the top tier ranging from 1999 to 2011.
Despite the absolutely amazing age of the plantings - most of the single vineyard wines did not get produced until about 5-7 years ago. Disregarding the Vat47 Chardonnay.
The oldest vines in the Hunter come from the Old Block and was planted 1867. Original cuttings from Hermitage, the story goes it might even have been from La Chapelle...
Seemingly suitable it was James Busby himself who brought them there.
Other single vineyards are:
Jhonnos’, planted in 1908
Stevens, 1865-1911
Belford, 1933
HDV, 1908

Back to the reds. Gently pressed, aged in large foudra's and using an especially quick pump over method, they manage to produce wines with good color and depth. The old vines lends to a tight knitted composition that lets the flavor stay in the mouth for much longer than most wines you will ever try.
We were still exchanging tasting sensations while getting on the coach.

Hunter Valley was an utter revelation. Why so unfashionable?

Charlotte x