Where the wild fowl gather

Kooyong at Port Phillip Estate has won many accolades for their extraordinary cellar door. The look of  a spaceship, randomly landed in the Mornington Peninsula. For those who have not yet read the new James Halliday compilation - check for Winery of the Year under K.

Unfortunately the Pope of the Peninsula, that is Sandro Mosele, could not hold the presentation. His dear wife was literally in labour during our three hour visit. A boy we are told! Many and warm congratulations on behalf of the James Busby group. An heir has been born.

Well as we would find out, an heir to Port Phillip Estate may already be in place... Meet Tessa Brown:

Tessa has been the Assistant Winemaker for about three years, with an extensive background in Viticulture. In her one words, a few years back she joined the Dark Side completing a winemaking postgraduate.
She really and truly impressed us all with her confidently grounded style. Showing a real understanding of the international market and the issues Australia is facing today. Also handing us on silver plate - the description of the so called "Mod Oz Chardonnay" (Modern Australian Chardonnay Style):

"Pure, fine, mineral; linearity, finesse."

"Australian wine producers shouldn't go chasing the market. They must dare to be different and unique. Focusing on sense of place and longevity. Copying old world does not mean MAKING  the old world."


An integral and important part of our visit was to view and sense the well known iron stone specked soils of Ferrous. One fair thought by a participator in our group was - discussing minerality - iron SPECKED soil won't make that much impact(?). Well we all tasted the very unique characteristics of the Kooyong Ferrous Pinot Noir. In Ms. Tessa Browns own words the wine seems: "Curled up in a corner giving you the snake eye".

Look, this is the way my mind is viewing the situation:
Kooyong along with Mac Forbes and Giant Steps etc. (in the Yarra Valley) are All aiming towards showing the most honest expressions of the chosen grape varieties in particular soils.
In detail there are subtle differences.
Sandro was chosen as the Captain of Kooyong due to his skills and experience.
Most importantly he was given the freedom to investigate the greatest plots around the Peninsula and plant with the best suited variety. A journalist pointed out:
"Sandro Mosele is one of the luckiest people". Despite a wealthy company owner - he is and will remain one of the most greatly respected vignerons in this promising vine area. Partly due to the fact that he managed to bypass years of trial and error by choosing his sites so carefully.

On a personal note, spending time with the man and the woman of Kooyong - they both come a across as lovely and sensitive people.

I really respect their single vineyard expressions along with their future aim. I find honest pure, healthy wines with the ability to age. Producing Massale and Clonale Pinot Noir and Chardonnay they may be portraying Burgundy historical technique. But through a great viticulturist you identify individuality in vines, along with soil plots of special nature.

For me. My impression of Kooyong as a whole speaks of both the scientific and disciplined, financial aim; Intertwined with real skill and intuition.

In other words - a close to perfect environment for Sandro and Tessa.

Charlotte x