Do you want to drink better wine?

With this post I wonder:
 - As a restauranteur. Do you choose the wines on your wine list. Or do the guests?

Let me explain.
I understand the primary reason for any choice being made in business. Money.
After that you look at strategy - long term versus short term.
Intertwined in all of these aspects lays identity. Interest, focus, perhaps uniqueness and even passion.
What I am trying to get my head around at the moment is the psychology behind choosing importers to source the DNA of your wine list from. If you are serious and have the investment and time, you go for several. Big and small importers. You pick and choose the way any artist would, to create a harmony. With balance, structure, power and that X Factor. On the other hand if you are small, you may want a list that is short, concise and let me say - basic and predictable.
Of course you could go that way, whether your offer is large or small.
My impression is there can be only two reasons for choosing this plan of attack.
1. You do not know much about wine, lack good advisor and so go for the easy obvious choices.
2.  You know more about the options that are out there, but believe that the customer/guest does not want to be challenged.

If you are restaurateur of the latter view you make me so sad!

In my opinion people DO want to be educated, challenged, taught, shown, guided. Whatever you want to call it. Even the the guests who think they do not want to.
Obviously the product needs to be of good quality, but the whole point of a restaurants cuisine and it's wine list is that you willingly get guided in to a new world of experiences. You will learn something new about what you enjoy.

At home you may do what you like. But in a restaurant I believe you should allow your self to be educated.

Back to my point. I rejoice when people like David Cross and Tim Lawrence at Estbek House in north-easternmost Yorkshire, thrive on a total antipodean list.
http://www.estbekhouse.co.uk/

It saddens me when other restaurateurs don't think more of the their guests.

x Charlotte

Where the wild fowl gather

Kooyong at Port Phillip Estate has won many accolades for their extraordinary cellar door. The look of  a spaceship, randomly landed in the Mornington Peninsula. For those who have not yet read the new James Halliday compilation - check for Winery of the Year under K.

Unfortunately the Pope of the Peninsula, that is Sandro Mosele, could not hold the presentation. His dear wife was literally in labour during our three hour visit. A boy we are told! Many and warm congratulations on behalf of the James Busby group. An heir has been born.

Well as we would find out, an heir to Port Phillip Estate may already be in place... Meet Tessa Brown:

Tessa has been the Assistant Winemaker for about three years, with an extensive background in Viticulture. In her one words, a few years back she joined the Dark Side completing a winemaking postgraduate.
She really and truly impressed us all with her confidently grounded style. Showing a real understanding of the international market and the issues Australia is facing today. Also handing us on silver plate - the description of the so called "Mod Oz Chardonnay" (Modern Australian Chardonnay Style):

"Pure, fine, mineral; linearity, finesse."

"Australian wine producers shouldn't go chasing the market. They must dare to be different and unique. Focusing on sense of place and longevity. Copying old world does not mean MAKING  the old world."


An integral and important part of our visit was to view and sense the well known iron stone specked soils of Ferrous. One fair thought by a participator in our group was - discussing minerality - iron SPECKED soil won't make that much impact(?). Well we all tasted the very unique characteristics of the Kooyong Ferrous Pinot Noir. In Ms. Tessa Browns own words the wine seems: "Curled up in a corner giving you the snake eye".

Look, this is the way my mind is viewing the situation:
Kooyong along with Mac Forbes and Giant Steps etc. (in the Yarra Valley) are All aiming towards showing the most honest expressions of the chosen grape varieties in particular soils.
In detail there are subtle differences.
Sandro was chosen as the Captain of Kooyong due to his skills and experience.
Most importantly he was given the freedom to investigate the greatest plots around the Peninsula and plant with the best suited variety. A journalist pointed out:
"Sandro Mosele is one of the luckiest people". Despite a wealthy company owner - he is and will remain one of the most greatly respected vignerons in this promising vine area. Partly due to the fact that he managed to bypass years of trial and error by choosing his sites so carefully.

On a personal note, spending time with the man and the woman of Kooyong - they both come a across as lovely and sensitive people.

I really respect their single vineyard expressions along with their future aim. I find honest pure, healthy wines with the ability to age. Producing Massale and Clonale Pinot Noir and Chardonnay they may be portraying Burgundy historical technique. But through a great viticulturist you identify individuality in vines, along with soil plots of special nature.

For me. My impression of Kooyong as a whole speaks of both the scientific and disciplined, financial aim; Intertwined with real skill and intuition.

In other words - a close to perfect environment for Sandro and Tessa.

Charlotte x

Back to Reality

It's been an amazing journey. From Sydney to Perth, via everything.

Still gathering my thoughts enough to write a little piece each, of our warm experience's, at the different wineries. Please bear with me.

Here's a little something in pictures:

Charlotte xxx